Un mundo de café de especialidad : África (3ª Parte)
A World of Speciality Coffee : Africa (Part 3)
15/02/2022

We are going to the place where it all began. And the coffee too.


In other articles we have already taken you to South and Central America. If you have not already done so, we encourage you to read them before or after to get a full picture of the importance of speciality coffee in the world.


We arenow entering Central Africa . Here we find not only contrast, exuberance and coffee. It is difficult to approach this continent without talking about the colonial era, the explorers, and also the conflict.


The aftermath of colonialism, lack of means and political instability have left deep traces in this part of the world. To ignore these details would not give a complete picture of the importance of speciality coffee in the region. Coincidentally or not, of the ten countries along the Nile in the African continent, seven are on this list. We warn you that this is going to be a busy and very interesting trip. Let's take off quickly because there are many incredible places to visit.

 

 

Coffee from Burundi 

Burundi's 12-year civil war, which ended in 2005, displaced thousands of people from their land, leaving most of the country's coffee plantations abandoned. But now that activity has long since resumed, speciality coffee cultivation offers a chance for smallholder farmers to recover.

 

Almost all coffee trees are Arabica, and the government is betting heavily on the quality of production. Backed by entire families who make their living from these plantations. This has made them the centre of Burundi's economic activity. The lack of access to the sea means that transport difficulties are considerable. However, its sweet coffees, with their clean, floral aromas, have earned a growing presence in the speciality coffee market on their own merits.



Coffee from the Democratic Republic of Congo

It was arguably David Livingstone, in his search for the source of the Nile, who put the Congo on the map in 1869. Thus attracting the attention of Leopold II of Belgium. A figure who would be sadly remembered as one of the most perverse in history. To the disgrace of this beautiful country.


Gold, copper, rubber, cobalt and coffee were the main sources of wealth for the Belgian king, who in 1908 left a legacy of genocide. This led to decades and decades of conflict from which the country is slow to recover. In the 1970s, it was one of the continent's leading coffee exporters, but successive civil wars, beginning in 1990 and continuing to the present, have cut short its recovery.


What was once known as "coffee paradise" has the potential to be so again one day. Thanks to its mountains, large lakes, volcanic soils, ideal for growing arabica, and people willing to turn the page once and for all. For the time being, we need to appreciate the sweetness and acidity of the lots that come to us.

 

 

Ugandan coffee


Centuries ago, on the northern shore of Lake Victoria, robusta coffee grew wild. Uganda is its place of origin. And although arabica production is currently only 20%, the country is optimising to boost its arabica crop. Especially on the volcanic soil surrounding Mount Elgon.


Coffee is the country's most important export, and with 85 per cent of the crop in the hands of small producers, the circumstances are right for high quality speciality coffees. In some parts of the country, the altitude is as high as 2,300 metres above sea level, and temperatures are ideal for more complex coffees. This results in cups of refined acidity, fruity flavour and light sweetness.


Farmers are making unprecedented investments in new technologies, with less and less to envy from Kenya. Kenya, a neighbouring country that is considered a benchmark.


Kenyan Coffee


It was the British settlers who expanded export-oriented coffee production. They excluded Kenyans from the large plantations. Today, more than half a million smallholder farmers make up 99% of Kenya's coffee production.


It is a country that maintains its reputation for high quality and attention to detail. With strong, long-trained staff, employing strict grading techniques. In Kenya, coffee is grown on rich volcanic soils, at altitudes between 1700 and 2100 metres. Their speciality coffees are aromatic, with fruity citrus flavour and bright acidity. Some of the best on the continent.


Malawi Coffee


Faced with a rather low production rate, Malawi has opted for quality. The small quantities are due to the fact that most estates grow tea, macadamia nuts and tobacco. Coffee plantations are in the hands of a few cooperatives and 5 large estates. The country's great potential lies with small farmers, who are enabling more sustainable measures to be put in place on farms. Organic fertilisers, nitrogen-fixing plants that improve health, or planting banana trees, to provide shade for the coffee trees, and fodder for the animals. The main species grown is arabica. And we can find sweet, delicate and floral coffees.


Rwandan coffee


Rwanda is an example of regeneration. First it overcame Belgian colonial influence, which forced Rwandans to grow coffee. Then it overcame some of the saddest and most turbulent events of the late 20th century.


But the "Land of a Thousand Hills" has recovered, and today it is one of the most stable countries in the region. Coffee cultivation has played a major role in this, as an economic engine. It has played a key role in the fight against poverty in the country and, in some places, in the integration of women.


In particular, Rwanda's speciality coffee has earned an international reputation. High altitudes and nitrogen-rich volcanic soils are ideal conditions for high quality coffees with a wide variety of flavours. Chocolate, caramel, tangerine or grape, to name a few. Plus a clean, citrusy acidity.


  

Coffee from Tanzania


Here we return to the story of David Livingston. It was in Tanzania where, after three years missing, Morgan Stanley stumbled upon him, almost by chance, on the shores of Lake Tanganyika. Uttering the mythical phrase: "Dr. Livingston, I presume".


Or maybe not, and the words that in theory immortalised the moment never left his mouth, but the legend is now indelible. Tanzania's mountainous regions favour the cultivation of Arabica coffee, which accounts for 75% of production. This is the site of the continent's highest mountain, Kilimanjaro, at 5895 metres. Around 90% of the country's workforce is engaged in agriculture, and coffee is the second most exported product after tobacco.


Most are small coffee farmers, grouped in cooperatives, who carry out their tasks with little or no mechanical assistance. The goal for 2021 was to introduce at least 70% of the country's coffee into speciality markets. Its coffees are similar to Kenyan coffees, but with a milder acidity. This has led to it being compared to Colombian coffee, becoming an alternative to it. This is a sign of its high quality.


Ethiopian coffee


This is where the long history of history of coffee. Even before mankind decided it was a good idea to pass on knowledge in writing. It is the world's sixth largest producer, and also the source of some of the finest and most complex coffees. More than 15 million people grow it, and it accounts for 25-35% of the country's exports.


There is a great genetic variety in Ethiopian coffee plants. This, in turn, gives rise to a great variety of flavours. The vast majority are grown and harvested using traditional, sustainable methods, without chemical fertilisers or pesticides. In the face of such variety it is difficult to find common notes, but we can highlight their fruity, citrus and also floral flavours. In their culture, drinking coffee is a social ritual. It is closely linked to conviviality, hospitality and respect for guests.


Although achieving excellent quality is no easy task, the difficulties of the African continent are very particular. But if there is one thing about coffee, apart from providing comfortable moments, it is that it connects the people around it. And speciality coffee does this in a unique way because of the commitment required by everyone involved, right up to the cup.


At Syra Coffee we believe that a good way to honour so much effort is to bring you some of the magnificent coffees they produce in Africa. We encourage you to try them.